Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
